Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Arriving in Florence

Breakfast Leaving Rome
It was so sad to leave Rome, but arriving in Florence, I forgot how beautiful it is!  Howard and I were in Rome seven years ago for our 10th anniversary.  I remember the food, but not the beauty as much.

Speaking of beauty - our apartment in Florence is fabulous!!  Huge - three bedrooms, three bathrooms, a full kitchen with washer/dryer and a living room.  The large marble steps to our second floor (third story in Europe) apartment are challenging (80 steps, we counted) but beautiful.  Almost all rooms have painted frescoes on the ceilings.  Can this be?



The train ride was relaxing (according to me, I was studying - I only read three pages...where did the time go?) 


We took two quick taxis to the apartment (a la Amazing Race) - much "safer" than those "crazies" in Rome was the consensus.   We then had a fantastic lunch.. okay Howard.. step in here....

























(Howard) Elizabeth had recommended a wine bar for lunch... yes a wine bar.  Aside from the very good Montepulciano we had, we had our best antipasto and crostini of the trip...  really, really good.  Stacie and I had  big salads (think the Italian version of Elaine from Seinfeld) and the kids had gnocchi with a meat ragu, chicken, and caprese salad (guess who).  Gelato again, some window shopping, and naps before dinner.












While the kids napped, we went to a little (10 seats?) wine bar where the wines by the glass were all paired with an appetizer.  Two glasses of Brunello and chicken liver crostini (I ate both, of course), lousy service (think indifferent college student), but fun.

After naps, we went to the restaurant next to the wine bar.  expecting the same service we went in with a chip on our shoulders but were more than surprised.  We had a bottle of ProRibolitta, scampi risotto, and buffala mozzarella to start (really?), steak and Cacio e pepe for Brian and Jessica, Baccala (sea bass) for Stacie, and more Cacio e pepe for Rachel finished out our best dinner up to that point.
secco to start, the food was great, and the service was equal to the food.  

After dinner, we found a little local bar/cafe playing 70's music and had an amaro, wine, and gelato until the kids couldn't take us singing Barry White and YMCA any more.

Oh my gosh - why are we still so tired??  Perhaps it is all the activity, maybe jet lag...

Tomorrow, the Accademia, Uffizi, the best food day of our trip (gelato x2 again but no mozzarella???), and a surprise encounter with a legendary Hall-of-Famer that still has Howard buzzing.



Monday, April 1, 2013

Easter Sunday in Ancient Rome

Yes, the Easter Bunny came, but we still decided to head out early for some breakfast.  Given it was Easter, our preferred spot was just opening.  Realizing they wouldn't be ready for us in a "New York minute" we went to a place next door, and had a nice "sit down" breakfast - to Howard's dismay, this similar breakfast to what we had yesterday was a fortune since we chose to "sit"!   But it was good.  Howard and I each had two cappuccinos, which was the equivalent of 1/4 cup of coffee.  For the kids, a nutritious chocolate croissant with a cup of hot chocolate.  The breakfast of champions!

We met our tour guide for Ancient Rome bright and early at the Colosseum (that's not her, that's a gladiator). 

She did an incredible job of describing the life of the ancient Romans, who believed in providing all citizens with bread and entertainment to keep everyone happy (and to ensure votes!) Jessica also did a great job of taking pictures (see below).


  Next was the Forum where our guide walked us through incredible ruins that depicted a society where gathering, socializing, politicizing and trading were daily events...not to mention, celebrating a triumph or two..or three.. 


A highlight was learning how to use the Roman water fountain.  It looks like a faucet, but when you plug the mouth with your finger, the water is forced out of a smaller hole in the top of the neck of the faucet producing a drinking fountain - brilliant!  and fun.

After the 3 hour tour of Ancient Rome, we were ready for a cozy lunch at (okay, where is Howard?...)

(Howard takes over)  Lunch was at Taverna dei Fori Imperiali, in our food guide's neighborhood.  Being Easter Sunday, they had a special menu (you know how I 'love' those), but it was actually very good.  A bottle of Montepulciano, pasta, veal chops with truffle cheese, and lamb, and complimentary drinks afterwards (grappa and limoncello) rounded out a nice Easter lunch.


On our way to find a taxi home, we got Gelato and detoured past the church of St. Peter in Chains, where we viewed not only the chains that were said to bind St. Peter, but also a sculpture of Moses by Michaelangelo (so yes, I was in church on Easter...) 

Finally, after a long, full day of exploring, we headed back to the apartment to take a quick nap and get ready for dinner.

Dinner was in a converted warehouse on the outside of town, that specialized in pizza!  There was Roman (thin crust) and a thick crust. 



We love Star Tavern, Mr. Dinos, Forte's, etc. but this was right up there. After dinner, somehow, there was still time to fit in Grom again for more gelato (second gelato of the day), where the kids ordered, only in Italian.  Great final full day in Rome, but a little tiring with all of the walking and the sun (!) we got.

Coming tomorrow: the train to Florence, another great lunch, a surprisingly great dinner, and gelato x2 (again).